Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

About Rinnai

Where is Rinnai brand from?

Rinnai is a Japanese brand founded in 1920 with over 100 years of experience in gas-heating appliances.
Rinnai Malaysia was established in 1973 and has been trusted by generations of Malaysian households for its durable and environmentally-friendly appliances.

After-sales services (excluding installation):

  • Servicing and maintenance
  • Technical troubleshooting or product usage support
  • Spare part purchasing

General warranty is 2 years on manufacturing defects.
For warranty details and full terms and conditions, kindly refer here

You may contact our Customer Service team via:

Working hours: Monday – Friday 9AM – 4.30PM (excluding Public Holidays)

You may contact our Spare Part team via:

Working hours: Monday – Friday 9AM – 4.30PM (excluding Public Holidays)

Gas Hob / Gas Stove

What is the difference between a built-in hob and a table top stove?
  • Built-in Hob: Integrated into your kitchen countertop for a seamless, minimalist look. It requires a permanent “cut-out” hole.
  • Table Top Cooker/Stove: Sits directly on the counter with no installation needed. It is portable and easier to replace or move to a new location.

The Inner Flame is Rinnai’s original combustion technology with a heat efficiency of 52%.
The flame is tilted inwards rather than outward. This concentrates heat at the center of the pot, reducing heat loss and improving fuel efficiency by up to 20% compared to standard burners.

The Lotus Burner is an exclusive triple-deck burner design which creates this lotus-like 3D flame.
The flames surround and cover the bottom of the cookware nicely to ensure even heat distribution; the cookware heats up quickly and efficiently without wasting energy.
This results in a high heat efficiency of 67%

Air can sometimes get trapped in the gas valve or hose. 

Pro Tip: Press the ignition knob down and hold it for a few seconds longer to let the air circulate properly before the spark ignites the gas.

Rinnai’s Hyper Burner is designed for Malaysian’s favourite Wok Hei style cooking. 

It produces a powerful 5.5kW flame, which is much stronger than standard European brands (4.0kW to 5.0kW), making it perfect for high-heat stir-frying.

Standard safety guidelines suggest a distance of 700mm to 750mm (different models/designs may differ slightly). 

If the hood is too low, it could lead to fire hazard due to being too close to the fire source; if it’s too high, it won’t effectively suck up the smoke and grease.

  • Built-in Hobs: Most use battery-operated pulse ignition.
  • Tabletop Cookers: Most use mechanical “Piezo” ignition (the loud clack ‘tak tak tak’ sound) which requires no electricity or battery.

Most of our hobs are set for LPG usage. If you live in a condo with Gas Malaysia piped supply, you may request a Natural Gas version (subject to availability).

A healthy flame should be blue. A yellow flame in Malaysia is usually caused by:

  • Clogged burner holes (oil/spills)
  • Incorrect air-to-gas ratio (needs adjusting via the “damper” under the hob)
  • Impurities in the gas cylinder

You may refer here for more information on yellow flame.

Yes. It doesn’t affect the cooking.

This splashing is usually caused by the environment in the kitchen, such as high humidity and dust. It could also be from the impurities in the gas cylinder.

Yes. 

A small “pop” or “burp” sound occurs when the gas in the burner head finishes burning. This is normal and safe.

  • Burners & Pan Supports: Periodically clean the burners to prevent clogs. Remove and soak them in warm soapy water for about 15-30 mins then rinse and scrub under running water. Dry completely before reassembling them. 
  • For Glass: Use glass cleaner liquid and a microfiber cloth to wipe the glass surface. Avoid abrasive sponges that could scratch the surface.
  • For Stainless Steel: Wipe along the grain direction using a damp cloth and mild detergent. Full guide here.
  • Pro Tip: Wipe the surface whenever finished cooking (after cooled down) to avoid creating stubborn water marks and deposit stains from the spills

If unable to wash/soak off, you may use a toothpick to gently poke through the holes to clear them. Video guide here.

You may use the bubble test method. Video guide here.
If there is any bubbling along the hose, it means there is a crack/cut.

  • Gas Regulator: Every 5 years from MFG date. Or when it leaks gas or has incomplete combustion, or accidentally soaked in water.
  • Gas Hose: Every 2 years from MFG date. Or when there are signs of brittleness, cracks or cuts.

Cooker Hood

What is the difference between "Recirculating" and "Ducting" hoods?
  • Ducting/Ventilation: Smokes and fumes drawn into the hood are channelled out to the outside of the house through a ducting hose
  • Ductless/Recirculation: Smokes and fumes drawn in passes through a charcoal filter to purify the air by removing the odours before being released back into the kitchen. This method is usually used for apartments/high rise buildings where they are not allowed to create a hole in the kitchen wall for the venting duct

Check your management’s “House Rules.” Most modern condos have a designated hole in the yard or kitchen wall for ducting. If not, you will need to use a Recirculation model instead.

Yes, but only if the model supports Recirculation Mode.
You will need a charcoal filter kit for this mode (usually sold separately).

Ideally, your hood should be slightly wider than your hob/stove. This creates a “capture zone” so smoke and fumes don’t escape easily around the sides. At the very least, ensure it is the same width as your hob/stove.

  • Electric Hobs: 600mm to 700mm; from the surface of the hob to the bottom of the hood
  • Gas Hobs: 700mm to 750mm; from the surface of the hob to the bottom of the hood

If it’s too low, the heat could damage the hood or melt the plastic bits; too high, and it won’t capture the smoke efficiently.

Hoods are essentially giant fans. Noise is caused by the motor or air rushing through the ducts. To keep it quiet, keep the duct path as straight as possible, every 90° bend adds noise and reduces suction.

Note: It is recommended to keep the ducting hose within 10 feet in length and less than two bents to achieve maximum suction efficiency.

Yes!

  • Mesh/Baffle Filters (Metal): These trap grease. Wash them in hot soapy water every 2–4 weeks (depending on your cooking frequency). Video guide here
  • Charcoal Filters: These trap odors in recirculating hoods. They cannot be washed and must be replaced every 3–6 months (depending on your cooking frequency)



  • Mesh: Multiple layers of aluminum wire. They are cheap and common but can clog quickly.
  • Baffle: Stainless steel panels that force air to change direction quickly, causing grease to drop into a tray to capture the grease. These are more “pro-style,” durable, and easier to clean.

Most hoods come with a standard 3-pin plug.
But because they are mounted high up, you’ll need a power outlet installed behind the chimney or inside the cabinet above the hob within your reach for convenience.

  • Ducting/Ventilation Hood: Will help to a certain degree to remove some heat because it’s physically moving hot air out of the kitchen.
  • Ductless/Recirculation Hood: Will not be doing much for heat removal due to the air being recirculated back into the kitchen.

Electric Hob

What is the difference between Induction and Vitroceramic hobs?

While they look identical (both have a smooth glass surface), the technology is different.

  • Vitroceramic (Radiant): Uses heated elements under the glass that glow red. It heats the glass, which then heats the pot. It stays hot for a long time after cooking
  • Induction: Uses magnetic fields to vibrate the molecules in your pot, heating the pot directly. The glass stays relatively cool, and it is much faster and more energy-efficient
  • For Vitroceramic: No. You can use almost any flat-bottomed cookware (ceramic, copper, steel, glass, aluminum, stainless steel, glass, cast iron, claypot)
  • For Induction: Yes. You need ferrous (magnetic) cookware. Most induction compatible cookwares will have the labelled sticker
    If a fridge magnet sticks to the bottom of your pan, it’s compatible

Usually, no. Most full-sized electric hobs (3–4 zones) have a high power rating (often between 3kW and 7kW). They require a direct terminal which is a dedicated high-amperage circuit and a “cooker switch” installed by a qualified electrician to prevent blowing your fuses.

This is normal. 

Vitroceramic hobs use a thermostat to maintain the temperature you selected. The red glow will disappear and reappear as the element switches on and off to maintain at the selected heat/power level.

Generally, yes.

  • There is no open flame and no risk of gas leaks
  • Most electric hobs have a Child Lock and an Auto-off timer.
  • Induction is the safest because the cooking zone will not switch on unless a compatible cookware is detected

Most modern built-in hobs feature a Residual Heat Indicator (usually a glowing “H” on the display). 

Never touch the surface until the “H” disappears, especially for vitroceramic hobs where the glass top can remain hot enough for 15–20 minutes after cooking.

Found mostly on induction hobs, this feature draws extra power to one specific zone to boil water incredibly fast (often faster than an electric kettle). 

It usually stays active for 5–10 minutes before dropping back to a standard heat/power level.

The surface is made of Toughened Ceramic or Tempered Glass, which is very hard but can still potentially be scratched by:

  • Sliding rough-bottomed cast iron pots across it vigorously. Always lift your pots instead of sliding them!
  • Spilled salt or sugar being “ground” into the glass by a heavy pan
  • Using abrasive scouring pads 

Yes, but ventilation is important. 

Electric hobs (especially induction) have fans underneath to cool the electronics. You must leave a small gap (usually 20mm–50mm) between the bottom of the hob and whatever is below it to prevent overheating.

Clean it immediately (carefully!).
Sugar can “pit” or permanently damage the surface of a hot ceramic hob if it melts and fuses with the glass.
Use a specialized glass scraper while the surface is still slightly warm to gently lift the residue.

Oven

What is the fundamental difference?
  • Built-in Oven: A dedicated appliance for baking, roasting, and grilling. It uses heating elements (top/bottom) and usually has built-in fan
  • Combi Oven: Combines two or more technologies in one footprint. The most common are Microwave Combis (Oven + Microwave) or Steam Combis (Oven + Steam). Some even have air fry or dehydration functions too!

No. 

A Combi Oven has a proper heating element and a fan, just like a full-sized oven. It can brown a chicken and bake a cake perfectly, which a standard “microwave with a grill” cannot do effectively.

The Combi Oven is the ultimate space-saver. Because it handles microwaving and baking, you don’t need a separate bulky microwave taking up counter space. 

They are usually smaller in capacity (approximately 45L to 50L) compared to standard ovens (65L to 75L) which is also great for smaller kitchens.

  • In “Oven Only” mode: Yes, you can use metal
  • In “Microwave” or “Combi” mode: No. You must use microwave-safe glass or ceramic. If the microwave function is active, metal will cause arcing (sparks) and damage the unit

Steam Combi ovens allow you to cook with moisture. This preserves vitamins and minerals that are often lost in dry-heat roasting or boiling.

It also allows you to cook fish and vegetables perfectly without needing oils or fats.

Yes. 

When using the “Combination Mode” (Microwave + Fan Heat), you can cook a roast beef or a whole chicken in about half the time of a conventional oven. The microwave cooks the inside while the oven elements brown the outside.

For most domestic Steam Combi, it comes with a removable water drawer/tank for you to fill manually.

Built-in Ovens are generally easier to maintain because they are simpler. 

Steam Combis require regular “descaling” (removing limescale buildup), similar to a coffee machine, to keep the steam generators from clogging.

  • For 1-2 people: Yes, a 45L Combi is often enough
  • For families: It’s better as a supplementary oven. Use the large built-in oven for cooking large quantities and the Combi oven for side dishes or warming up

Combi ovens are significantly more expensive than standard built-in ovens because of the complex electronics. However, the “value” comes from the versatility, you are essentially buying two or three appliances in one.

Microwave

What are the standard sizes for built-in microwaves? Is it hard to replace an old built-in microwave?

Most built-in microwaves are designed to fit into standard 60cm wide cabinets. The heights can vary, but 38cm and 45cm are the most common. Always check your cabinet’s internal depth, as some built-in models are deeper than standard cupboards.

Pro Tip: Stick to major/popular brands, as they tend to keep their dimensions consistent across generations/models.

Unlike heavy-duty ovens, most built-in microwaves can run on a standard 13-amp plug. However, it’s best to have the outlet located inside the cabinet (usually in the cupboard above or behind the unit) so the cord is hidden.

  • Standard: Only uses microwave radiation to heat food (best for reheating/defrosting)
  • Grill: Includes a heating element at the top. This allows you to brown or toast the top of your food while microwaving

Built-in models usually pull cool air from the bottom and push hot air out through the top or front. This is why following the manufacturer’s “minimum clearance” instructions is vital, if you block the airflow, the magnetron (the part that makes the heat) will burn out.

You’re paying for the specialised cooling engineering, the higher-quality finish (usually fingerprint-proof stainless steel or glass) and the mounting hardware. They are built to much more rigorous safety standards for heat dissipation than the cheaper countertop models.

Yes, this is a very common “tower” configuration. 

Just ensure there is a heat shield or a solid shelf between the two. The heat from a large oven below can rise and affect the electronics of the microwave if they aren’t properly separated.

Electric Water Heater

Do I really need a DC Pump?

It depends on the water pressure.

  • Landed houses: Water pressure from the roof tank is likely weak, so it is more likely that the top floor will require a pump
  • Apartment/Condos:The pressure is usually high enough that a Non-Pump model suffices. But the top few floors (nearer to the water tank) will likely require a pump
  • AC Pump: Older technology. It’s louder, a noticeable humming sound, and consumes more electricity
  • DC Pump: Modern, nearly silent, and uses about 50% less energy. Most people now prefer DC pumps for a peaceful shower

Yes. 

Under Malaysian Energy Commission (Suruhanjaya Tenaga) guidelines, every heater must have a built-in ELCB/RCD. This device cuts off electricity within 0.1 seconds if it detects a current leak, preventing electrocution.

This is to ensure that the ELCB / RCD is functioning as it is to prevent current leakage. 

It is recommended to test the ELCB / RCD at least once a month.
Check on your respective model user manual on how to test the ELCB/RCD.

That big switch with the red neon light is a safety requirement. It isolates both the “Live” and “Neutral” wires. 

In Malaysia’s humid climate, this ensures the heater is completely powered down when not in use, preventing internal component degradation.

Absolutely not. 

A water heater (typically 3.6kW to 4.8kW) draws more current than a standard wall socket can handle. It must be “hard-wired” to a dedicated high-amperage circuit (at least 20A) directly from your distribution board (DB box).

This is a common issue in older Malaysian piping. When another tap opens, the water pressure drops. If it falls below the minimum flow rate required by the heater, the heating element shuts off automatically to prevent overheating.

Stop using the heater immediately. This usually means the safety circuit has failed or there is an actual electrical leak. Call a technician to check the wiring or the unit’s internal board.

Yes, especially in areas like Kelantan or parts of Selangor. 

Sediment and minerals can clog the inlet filter. You should clean the inlet filter every few months to maintain good pressure and flow.

Yes. There is a small mesh filter in the water inlet point.

Unscrew and remove the mesh filter then rinse under running water to remove any sediments.
You should clean it every few months to maintain good pressure and flow.
Video guide here.

Not recommended.

To keep your warranty valid and ensure safety, you should hire a CIDB-certified or ST-licensed wireman. Faulty grounding is the leading cause of water heater accidents.

During the rainy season, the incoming water is colder. Since an instant heater can only raise the temperature by a set amount, you should reduce the water flow rate using the knob to give the heater more time to warm the water.

Dishwasher

Do I really need a dishwasher in Malaysia?

While handwashing is traditional, a dishwasher saves roughly 7 to 10 days of your time per year. In modern Malaysian households where both parents often work, it’s a massive time-saver for the hectic lifestyle.

No, it’s the opposite. 

Handwashing a full load under a running tap can use up to 60 to 100 liters of water.
A modern dishwasher uses only 9 to 15 liters per cycle, which is significantly better for your water bill and the environment.

In most parts of Malaysia (Klang Valley, Penang, JB), the water is considered “soft” (low mineral content).
Therefore, dishwasher salt is often not required unless you live in a specific area with very hard water or notice white spots on your glassware after washing.

Yes. 

Most dishwashers have an Intensive Washing mode that heats water to 70-75°C. This is much hotter than your hands can stand and easily melts away stubborn oils and turmeric stains that usually ruin sponges.

  • Built-in: Professionally installed to match with the kitchen cabinet for a seamless look. The front is usually covered by a matching cabinet panel/door 
  • Built-under: Designed to fit under a standard kitchen worktop and sits between cabinets, often with a matching plinth/kickboard across the bottom. Less seamless than fully integrated but still matches well with the cabinets
  • Free-standing: Usually placed under a counter or just on its own, can be easily relocated and has a less seamless look
  • Table Top: Smaller units that can be placed on the countertop and don’t require cabinet modification

Yes, provided they are labelled as “Dishwasher Safe”.
Modern dishwashers with Turbo Heat Drying can dry plastics effectively without melting them.

  • Wood: No, the heat and moisture will cause wood to warp and crack
  • Cast Iron/Carbon Steel Wok: No, it will strip the “seasoning” and cause rust
  • Non-stick Pans: Generally not recommended as it can degrade the coating

It needs three things: 

  1. A clean water inlet, usually tapped from the sink pipe
  2. A drainage outlet, into the sink trap
  3. A standard 13A power point

Most Malaysian kitchen contractors can set this up easily.

Rinse aid is a liquid surfactant that helps to break water surface tension, enabling faster drying and eliminating water spots or cloudy mineral deposits on dishes and glasses.
It is more recommended for hard water areas.

Absolutely not! 

Regular liquid soap creates too many bubbles and will cause the machine to leak or even damage the motor.
You must use specified Dishwasher Tablets, Powder or Gel (brands like Finish or Astonish are widely available at our local stores).

 

Gas Clothes Dryer

How does a gas dryer differ from an electric one?
  • Electric: Uses a heating element, like an oven
  • Gas: Uses a gas burner. This allows it to reach higher temperatures much faster, significantly reducing drying time and energy costs

Yes. 

Based on Malaysian utility rates, LPG or Natural Gas is generally more cost-effective for generating heat than electricity. You can save approximately 20–30% on operating costs compared to a standard vented electric dryer.

A standard 6kg load typically takes only 60 minutes. A small 1kg “emergency” load can be dried in as little as 20 minutes.

Yes. 

The high heat of the gas flame effectively kills 99.9% of bacteria, including Moraxella, which is the primary cause of the “sour” smell in laundry that hasn’t dried properly in Malaysia’s high humidity.

You need three things:

  1. A gas supply (LPG cylinder or piped gas)
  2. A standard 13A power point (electricity to turn the drum and electronics)
  3. A venting outlet (to discharge moisture and exhaust)

Yes, but it must be placed in a well-ventilated yard area. 

You will need to install a ducting hose to vent the moisture outside to avoid heat being trapped within the yard area.

In Malaysia, Rinnai units are available for both LPG and Natural Gas. Ensure you buy the correct version for your home.

Yes. 

There is a lint filter at the back of the drum. For the best drying efficiency and safety, you should flick off the lint after every drying cycle.

Rinnai gas dryers are equipped with multiple safety sensors:

  • Flame Failure Device: Cuts gas if the flame goes out
  • Overheat Switch: Shuts down if temperature gets abnormally high
  • Door Switch: Stops the drum if the door is opened

No, it uses a standard 9.5mm gas hose (the same type used for your kitchen stove).